Solar
We are prewiring for solar with #6AWG. The plan is for at least 200 watts in flex panels from AM Solar (assuming the tests Lewster is doing pan out) I know most people go thru the refrigerator vent, but then many people have their batteries in close proximity. My batteries on the other hand are up front under the window. This would require going through three ribs (mostly above the door with frankly HONKIN' big holes. I'm not even sure there is room to grommet after they are drilled because the flange on the rib gets in the way. I suppose I could "unjacket" the wire? I'm nervous about doing these holes in this area as alot of these ribs in the sixties trailers don't go all the way from one side to the other. I did brace the ribs to the stringers but its an inherently weak point in the structure. Here's the area in question
I'm thinking the second option is a little better but could be persuaded differently.
Air conditioner drain
In the unlikely event we ever put an air conditioner on the roof, I'm putting in a drain line just in case. Somewhere on the forum I read it should be 1/2 inch inner diameter. That is a really big hose! If I place it street side leading down to the wheel well if has to go through one rib and 4 stringers. I wish I could draw on these pictures but I don't have a way to do that!! Basically it would be through the stringer at the back of where the fantastic fan now, and then down through the stringers like the black pipe (the water tank vent).
Is it really necessary for it to be this big? Can I use a smaller tube and adapt it somehow to the tube at the air conditioner?
All this work for something that will probably never happen! Unless we move to Texas.....and I break my leg and am stuck in the trailer with a cast on.... and the planned air conditioner never works out..... yeah, get the picture?
So any suggestions? Other than to stop overthinking things and just get the interior skins in!!!!!
Haha your trailer looks like mine, love it post more pics!
ReplyDeleteI highly recommend you go with the 1/2-inch drain tube installed with very gentle bends. A smaller tube will clog too easily. A large tube installed with no tight turns will be less prone to clogging, and easier to clean if it should clog.
ReplyDeleteBTW, most clogs come from "boogers" that form from algae growing in the condensate. If you are in to pre-emptive maintenance, you can flush the line with a Clorox solution at the end of camping season.
Tom